Greetings from the Sunshine State!

Hello my dear readers, it's been a long while! If you follow me on Instagram, you will know that sooo much has changed since my last blog post. We have moved from Surrey to Brisbane, Australia! Needless to say, relocating almost as far as humanly possible in the middle of a global pandemic was full of ups and downs, and I think we are only breathing a sigh of relief now that all our household belongs have finally arrived. On the one hand, we are so traumatised from the whole process that we can't imagine moving ever again; on the other, though, having worked as a team to pack up the house and rent it out, sell the car and getting on a plane (not being 100% sure that they'd let us on it!) with 2 weeks' notice, and then arriving in Sydney without knowing when we would actually be able to get to Queensland with a toddler in tow, living without our own stuff for about 5 months, and surviving it all has also made us feel quite empowered in other ways. 

We moved to Brisbane with my work for an opportunity of a lifetime, but also for all the lifestyle that comes with living in the Sunshine state! We don't know what the future holds, but for now, are pinching ourselves that we live in such a great city with so much on our doorstep. We are now accustomed to our weekend getaways to really experience what is on offer in South East Queensland. 

Last weekend we drive about an hour north to Caloundra on the Sunshine coast, and had an absolute blast! There were so much for us all to enjoy, and the weather was absolutely perfect (considering it is now winter). 

More activewear - Greenstyle Cavallo & Elevate (including Fit Capsule Part 2)

2018 was when I started dabbling in sewing activewear, and 2021 is the year it finally took off! Considering that I'm quite a bit less active right now (thanks multiple lockdowns!), it's quite surprising that I find myself rather addicted to making sporty outfits! 

But it's not all plain sailing. These Greenstyle Cavallo leggings jammed my beloved coverstitch machine so much that I had to take it back to the dealer for repair/un-jamming. Worse still, I was mid reverse coverstitching inside the left trouser leg when the machine halted to a stop with a louse noise, and it was so jammed that I could not get the leg back out for the life of me! To my huge relief, both the machine and the fabric came back good as new. 

Fit capsule 2021 Part 1 - Power Bra + Tempo leggings

Wow, I'm so pleased to be participating in the Greenstyle Fit Capsule challenge this year! I've been trying to make more activewear for some time, and this challenge was just what I needed to kick my arse into gear, whilst thinking about building that capsule wardrobe.  

Here is my first post on the Fit Capsule, showing off my new pair of Tempo tights, with a matching Power Sports Bra. I had bought this floral jungle fabric from Funki Fabrics, and matched it with this navy technical legging fabric from Frumble. 

New workout/casual set - merino low back top and Brassie joggers

Do you do new year resolutions? Personally, I don't (mainly because I know I won't stick with it!), but I do believe in making new workout clothes for the new year. Anything for a bit of motivation, am I right? 

I've been trying my hand at sewing activewear for some time. I may not have featured a lot on my blog yet, but you may have seen a few projects on my instagram grid. So far, they've mainly been pole fitness-related, even including a couple of sets for a photoshoot, so it is definitely time to sew something sporty with more coverage! 

Introducing my new set for yoga, pole fitness warm-up/cool down, stretching and just generally lounging about. At a push, I'd be pretty pleased to wear these as PJs, too, I'm sure. 

It comprises a super colourful pair of Brassie Joggers by Greenstyle Creations (one of the best places to go for activewear patterns, in my humble opinion), teamed with a low back top that I eked out of a rather tiny remnant of merino jersey which I picked up from the Fabric Store in Melbourne a few years ago (cos, you know, what else would you buy from a trip to Oz?). 

The Present Dress

"Why has Mummy turned into a present?" Exclaimed my 2 year-old daughter as I emerged with my newly sewn Ruska Knot Dress.

I'm not sure which way to take this really. Perhaps I should be pleased that the knot, which is the great design feature of this dress, was exactly that, a great feature, and one that's instantly noticeable. Or could this be that Freya had too many presents to open at Christmas, so much so that everything looks like a present now?

Anyway, Happy New Year, my dear readers. I do hope that 2021 turns out to be a better year for everyone! 

I'm starting 2021 with my very own Ruska Knot dress, from the Breaking Pattern book by Named Clothing. Read how I downloaded the pattern for free (hint, check out Love Sewing Magazine website), and how I altered and constructed it without instructions on Minerva :)

Manly joggers - True Bias Hudson

It's pretty well documented that I very rarely sew for anyone other than myself. I mean, as a full-time working mum with a toddler, I struggle to find the time to sew as it is. My rationale for being so "selfish" (in quotation marks, because I don't think it really is selfish) is that sewing is there to help me unwind from my busy job, rather than adding to my list of tasks as some kind of chore. 

But the lockdown and the pandemic is doing crazy things to the brain, in mysterious ways! I voluntarily decided to make a pair of joggers for my husband, and for no special occasion! I was feeling a bit sorry for his lack of lounge wear for his new work from home routine, plus (the real reason) I already had grey threads in my overlocker 😅 Anyone else relate to this? 

Sleep hair don't care

New PJs you say, mummy? 

With a face like this, who wouldn't want to sew more for little Freya? 

This Minerva Maker project has come just in time for a growth spurt, and I'm so grateful for the super funky fabric! The pattern combo is the Elm T-shirt by Poppy & Jazz, and the (FREE) Lightning Leggings by Made by Jack's Mum. Find out more on the Minerva blog! 

Time for another Grand'ourse

Hello, my name is Alice, and I'm addicted to sewing the Grand'ourse jacket by Ikatee. Even though Freya is only 2 years and 2 months old, this is the 5th time I've made this pattern. How is this even possible?! I promise that I don't have too much time on my hands. Previous blogged versions are here, here and here, and I also made a cosy version for one of Freya's friends. 

The problem is, when I get my hands on a lovely fabric, this amazing pattern pops straight to mind. I guess that's what an addiction feels like! 

And this is exactly what happened when I managed to grab this cute Native Arrows brushed back sweatshirt fabric from a recent sale from Guthrie and Ghani.

I told myself, Freya is just about growing out of her other Grand'ourse jackets. Could I really cope with her not having one of those?

Leopard print matching joggers

There are few things in life that make me happier than twinning with Freya with me-made outfits. Naturally, lockdown called for more lounge wear, so a few pairs of leopard print joggers are in order. 

Guys, these are some of my favourite makes to date. The only thing that I kind of regret is not adding knee patches to my pair, because they are so adorable! 

I used the tried and tested Papercut Anima (tweaking for a couple of things) for my pair, and the amazing Mini Modern Joggers by Brindille & Twig for Freya. In fact, I enjoyed making Freya's pair so much so that I made another contrast pair from the remnant! 3 pairs of joggers in 1 metre each of the plain maroon and leopard French Terry, plus 0.5m of matching ribbing. Can you get more efficient than that! Warning - DO not try this at home, at least without lots of time spent planning first! In all honestly, I ended up with absolutely zero remnant of the French Terry, and just a bit of the ribbing. So much to love about this project! 

There are lots more details over on the Flamingo Fabrics blog - pop over to find out my review of the Mini Modern Joggers pattern, the changes I made to my second pair of Anima, and alternative patterns to consider. Enjoy! 

A little update and a tutorial (easy hacks for a FREE T-shirt pattern)

It’s been a while, my dear readers. I’ve been sewing (colour-blocked Sapporo jacket anyone?), but not quite blogging about them just yet. Truth be told, I’ve been struggling health wise since Aug, where my eyes are swollen and red all day long due to a suspected allergy to an unknown allergen. Sigh. It’s uncomfortable to say the least, and not very photogenic at all! Initially I thought that it would pass within a few days, then a couple of weeks, and now over 2 months have passed… you know how it is! On the plus side, I am seeing specialists and trying all sorts of things to put this frustrating chapter behind me.

That’s enough doom and gloom for now! We are all otherwise doing fine during these crazy times, and consider ourselves very lucky to be staying safe, and enjoying quality family time together.

This brings me to my next point – I have a little tutorial to share with you today, which features cute photos of Freya. She is over on the Flamingo Fabrics blog today, modelling some easy hacks that you can make to their FREE kids T-shirt pattern. Yep, you read that right – there is a FREE (via newsletter sign-up) T-shirt pattern in town! It’s lovely (though to be fair, any T-shirt pattern with a seam cover detail gets my vote), and I’ve shared a few ways and ideas of jazzing it up.

Enjoy and stay well!

What a Pocket dress

The sew-jo is still in full swing, and I've got another project to share with you. Would you look at the size of that pocket?!

Just posing to show off my pocket...

This is another Ellie & Mac pattern, the Be Independent dress. You'd be forgiven to think that I had become some kind of brand ambassador for Ellie & Mac. It seems to be all I sew at the moment! The truth it, I'm hooked with their Wacky week promotion (a silver lining of the current situation), and the opportunity to pick up fantastic patterns for $1 is just too hard to resist. But no, I'm not affiliated, and actually don't do any affiliate links (at the moment anyway - perhaps one day I will give it more thought). 

Toddler harems

Harems are a must for babies and toddlers. They are comfy, easy to slip on and off, and have the added benefit of being the easiest sewing project ever! 

I am by no means a fast sewer (in fact, the thought of speed sewing makes me break out in cold sweats), but I can knock these out in less than a hour. Side seams, cuffs, and waistband, and you are done!  

So when Freya had her little growth spurt recently, naturally I decided to have a go at making some harems. Actually, I was really surprised by the realisation that I hadn't already made these for her! Having bought the Snowflake Jumper from Ellie and Mac for the grand total of $1 on their Wacky Wednesday offer a few weeks ago (see my discovery and love for WW here), I knew I had the perfect base. 

I made 2 pairs making slightly different modifications, and actually love how they both turned out! 

Misusu Rowan Tee (a free pattern)

Who doesn't love a free pattern? I first discovered Misusu through Zoe's Free Pattern Friday feature, and the Rowan tee has been on my list for a while!

A slightly oversized boxy tee with short dolman sleeves, you say? Count me in! Given that we often find ready-to-wear clothes a little on the tight side, an oversized look was a welcome change. Something that doesn't cling to the body is also perfect for the little heat wave that we are having here in the UK.  

With very few pattern pieces (front, back, neckband, optional pocket and optional long sleeves), this is certainly a pattern to show off cute prints. And just how cute is this pineapple cotton jersey? The colours just scream summer, and has that effect of instantly putting a smile on my face. 

The Everywhere Dress (Ellie and Mac)

I'm not kidding when I told you that my sew-jo is back. I am on a roll! Freya was in need of more all-weather dresses, and I even tried out a new pattern designer this time. 

This is the Everywhere Dress by Ellie and Mac, and it is so so adorable! 

I only discovered Ellie and Mac (EAM) recently, and they are a PDF only designer. I must admit that I was first drawn in by their Wacky Wednesday offer, where selected patterns go on sale for the grand total of $1 every Wednesday! Yep, you read that right! They are practically free!! I took a gamble, and am so pleased that I did. The rest, as they say, is history. Nowadays, waiting for Wacky Wednesday has become a bit of a ritual, and I'm a proud owner of a few EAM patterns now! 

During the "lockdown" period, EAM is running Wacky Wednesday all week long! Check out the $1 patterns that are currently on, and the selection changes each Monday. 

The Everywhere Dress was a no-brainer when it came on sale one Wednesday. I loved everything about it: the colour blocking, the pockets, and even different sleeve length. The sizing also covers a whopping 12 months to 14 years (which will actually be too big for me, though there is a matching adult version available in any case). I see opportunities for more twinning :D

Sewing with knits – what I wish I knew 5 years ago

Guys, it’s been more than 5 years since I started sewing with knits! Can you believe that?

5 years in, a lot has changed. For starters, I had an amazing little girl Freya, who truly brightens up every single day of my life. If I thought that I felt smug with my ability to sew with knit fabrics when I was pregnant (ever expanding tummy = appreciative of the quality of stretchy fabrics), I was overcome with smugness when I had a fast-growing baby and now toddler on my hands! Almost Freya’s entire wardrobe (home-made and shop bought) was made of cotton jersey/French Terry, and for good reason: there is nothing more comfortable for a growing and active child to wear!

I’ve learned lots about sewing with knits, though I would in no way suggest that I know everything about it. In addition to the lightbulbmoments that I shared with you when I first started, I wanted to share with you a few more things that I’ve learned. Sharing is caring, after all.

Mermaid toddler raincoat

I'm absolutely loving all the new fabrics that Rico Designs have brought out recently. Naturally I couldn't resist this quirky mermaid coated cotton, and wanted to make Freya a little raincoat. I turned to the tried and tested Ikatee Grand'ourse pattern again - see my last version here. 

This is another project as a Minerva Maker, and I'm so happy to be a part of the team! Read all about the project, including tips on working with coated cotton fabric here!

Summer romper

Do you ever see fabrics that you just have to have? This ice lolly print was certainly one of them for me. Sorry, I mean, for Freya. Freya needs this! Who am I to argue? 

I knew that it would be perfect for a little summer romper. I have been on the hunt for the perfect romper pattern, which even involved self drafting one (it worked well, and even had ruffles, but I have not managed to blog about it). Until I came across the Doodlebug Romper by Peek-a-Boo patterns -- all my romper prayers have been answered! 

It's a simple design that has an envelope neck, snap crotch closures, and comes in 2 lengths for both the sleeves and legs. There's even an option for a kangaroo pocket! 

The instructions were informative and professional, and the romper sewed up a treat with no issues. It was quite a satisfying project -- I found a matching ribbing easily, my machine was happy twin stitching the hem, and even the snap closures didn't give me any trouble. What more could I ask for? 

That's it for now - just a short post to show off the little summer romper. Time to enjoy the mini heat wave! 

Panda outfit and a flatlock tutorial!

One of my favourite pieces of Freya's ready to wear clothing was a pair of bum panel leggings. From the front, they looked like a cute pair of leggings with sweet polka dots, but as she rolled over, what do you know? There was a ladybug staring right at you. Naturally, once she has outgrown them, I wanted to make my own for the next size. 

One of the details on those ladybug leggings were that the bum panel was flatlocked, so I thought I'd go the whole way and recreate those, too. Since this took a bit of experimentation, and there's not that much out there on this topic, I wanted to do a little tutorial here, too. As a result, this post is going to be a long one, with lots of photos, so please make sure you are sitting comfortably. 

Outfit

First of all, a few words on the project. I bought this lovely Panda French Terry even before Freya was born, as pandas are obligatory for a half Chinese baby, right? 

I knew I wanted to make a long sleeve Ringer Tee with it, but wanted to complete the outfit without there being pandas everywhere. Then the light bulb moment came - bum panel leggings! 

I almost self-drafted the bum panel from the tried and tested leggings pattern, but then I came across the Locksley leggings by Mother Grimm. Having spent 4 years living in Cardiff, I have developed quite a soft spot for the Welsh people, who welcomed me wholeheartedly to their country when I was still a fresh faced teenager. I couldn't pass the chance to support an independent (tick), Welsh (tick), sewing-related (tick) business. 

Both the top and leggings were made straight out of the envelope, so to speak, in size 9-12 months. Both patterns were great, and an easy sew. The only tricky thing was the flatlocking, which I'll get to now! 

Tutorial

What is flatlock? 

Strictly speaking, you need a special, industrial machine to do a proper flatlock. It is a stretch seam with basically no bulk, which is why it's often used in activewear.

What I'm showing you today is a flatlock stitch done on an overlocker (or a serger, for those sewing friends across the pond). As I'm doing a "strong flatlock" (or "lapped flatlock"), it is not completely bulk-free, but as the seam allowance overlaps within the stitching, this seam is much more comfortable against the skin compared to a normal overlock. [*NB - you can achieve a complete bulk-free flatlock on an overlocker, but the resulting seam is much less strong and secure, so I don't like to use it on leggings. See the hemming section below).]

What you'll need

• An overlocker/serger
• Its manual
• Matching/contrasting  thread

Machine settings

Please refer to your machine manual here. What we are doing is a wide, 3-thread flatlock with the left needle, which means that the left needle will need to come out. The tensions depend on your specific machine, and the fabric that you are working with, but for your reference mine are 0.5, n/a, 5 and 7. These are what my machine recommended for medium-weight fabrics, and worked a treat. I also leave my cutting blade engaged.

Preparation 

Before we start flatlocking away, I like to prepare the pattern pieces. The actual sewing part is quick and fun, so let's be patient with the preparation part :)

A key consideration here are the seam allowances, and this comes in two parts.

• For the seams that you are flatlocking, the seam allowances will end up overlapping. My flatlocked seam is approx 5mm (the same as my wide overlock), and the pattern calls for a 10mm seam allowance. This means that I need to trim an extra 2.5mm (approx 1/8 inch) off these seams to enable me to sew them up as usual. In other words, I am trimming off the 2.5mm now from these seams on my cut pattern pieces before sewing, so that when I serge, I'm able to place the fabric in the "normal" position against the blade, trimming off the "normal" amount. Alternatively, you could do nothing now, and trim and extra 2.5mm as you sew, but this tutorial follows the method above. 
• Secondly, for the seams that will cross the flatlocked seams, I trimmed the full extra 5mm off the seam allowances before sewing. This is because the flatlocked seams, although strong, are harder to secure. I secure them (as detailed below) with a few steps, but if you end up then cutting the tied ends off as you sewed your next seams, you have a risk of the flatlocked stitch unravelling. This step therefore requires you to consider all the seams that cross the flatlocked seams, and for these leggings, they are the inseams and waistline seams, as well as the waistband seams. 

Let's get sewing!

It goes without saying that you should try this stitch on 2 layers of scrap fabrics of the same weight first, before working on your actual garment. 

For a traditional flatlocked look, pin or clip the pieces with wrong sides together. I'd like the flatlock to be on the panda (rather than pink) side, so the panda side is facing up. This will make sense in a minute, I promise. 

Sew a long thread chain first. Then, place the fabric in the usual position next to the blade (see explanation in the prep section above). Check again that you have the wrong sides together, and start serging as normal. Once the seam is finished, continue sewing until a long thread chain is formed. 

You should have a seam that looks quite similar to an overlock, but a bit more scrunched up. The tension is a bit off, but this is okay as we want the off tension on purpose. 
Use your fingers to even out the stitching slightly. This is where the long thread chain comes in handy! You'll be amazed by how much of it unravels as you even out the stitch. If you are flatlocking a long seam - leave an extra, extra long tail. 

This is what my seam looks like. 

Next, the magic step! Pull your fabrics on both sides so that the stitching loosens up. The seam allowances should overlap each other, and the loopers should appear on the right side of the fabric, enclosing the seam allowances on the panda (or your equivalent) side. Note - you must complete this step before sewing your next seams.  

So we have on the right side:

And wrong side. Note that if you prefer the ladders look, and want this on your right side, this is easy to achieve. Instead of pinning and serging wrong sides together, pin and sew with right sides together. 

You have a flatlocked seam! Now we just need to secure it. I go a bit crazy here, so I tie a knot (top tip - use a pin to position the knot close to the fabric - pictured below), fray check, and I also bar tack it within the seam allowance. And since I've already trim the other pattern pieces that will be intersecting the ends of the flatlocked seams, I know that I won't be trimming the secured ends off. This should make sure that your beautiful seams stay that way. 

That's it! Easy, right? 

Bonus points!

Want more? Sure! Some extra points for you. 
1) Don't have an overlocker? You can fake this with a sewing machine - see Taisia's tutorial here! 
2) This stitch could be used as a decorative detail, too. For example, it looks great on a raglan tshirt. 
3) It can also be a nice stitch used for mending ready to wear clothing
4) You could have a matching flatlocked hem, too! 

What I've outlined above is where we have the seam allowances overlapping each other (what I'm calling a "strong flatlock"), rather than having them next to each other and meeting in the middle (more of a true flatlock). For 2), 3) and 4) above, we need to aim for less bulk, and therefore the true flatlock. 

Let me demonstrate it on the hem. With hindsight, I'd actually recommend that you hem with a flatlock flat, rather than in the round. In other words, it would be better to sew the hem before the inseams. You could then start and finish in the seam allowance, so that the thread chains/ends will be nicely hidden in the inseams. 

First, fold your hem once to the wrong side as usual. You'll want to fold the full depth of the hem required for your pattern. 

Then fold again to the wrong side, by exactly the same amount. To achieve a neat hem, it's crucial to fold exactly the same amount over in these steps, making sure that the raw edge is right on the second crease/fold. You might find that pressing helps here. 

Next, disengage your cutting blade. Position the fabric slightly to the left so that the left needle catches the fabric, but the loops are hanging off the fabric. Before you sew on the fabric, remember to leave a long thread chain again at the start and end.  

See what I mean? Some of the stitching are on the fabric, and some off. 

 Now unfold the second fold, and pull flat. You should have on the outside: 

 And inside: 

Isn't it neat? Again, if you prefer the ladders, fold the opposite way - fold hem to the outside, and then again, before sewing as above. Now secure your thread chains, and you are done! 

Baby jacket with bunny ears

I'm absolutely delighted to share my latest collaboration with Flamingo Fabrics. Since having Freya, it's been one of my favourite websites to browse, drool over, and purchase from (this dandelion French terry used in my latest dungarees was from there). So imagine my response when the lovely Dorota asked me to write a guest blog post.  

The Ikatee Grand'ourse has been on my to-sew list for quite some time, and I love my first version from it. I say first, because I know that there will be many more.

  

Read more about the project, and my pattern review on the Flamingo Fabrics blog here! 

Leggings, bummies, and DIY size label

As Freya starts to grow out of her 6-9 clothes, I've been working on some wardrobe essentials for her in 9-12. 

I made another pair of the trusted leggings by Brindille & Twig, and unlike last time, without drama. 

I also tried out their Bummies pattern, which is available for free!  I opted for the leg bands, and omitted the drawstring. They have been great for the recent warm days, mainly as a neutral-coloured nappy cover under a little sundress. 

The fabric was a combed cotton jersey that I picked up on Black Friday last year from Girl Charlie. 

Both are such easy sews, and let me warn you now that I'll no doubt be making more versions of these in the years to come. 

One thing I have not had to worry about before now was size labels. Apart from when I was sporting a huge bump, my size has been pretty constant. But churning out clothes for a rapidly growing baby is a whole new ball game entirely. Suddenly, we needed to know the size of every item, especially when I'm not the only person that dresses our daughter. 

After gathering some bits from my stash, I made a few DIY size labels. I wanted them to be clear, rustic looking, and comfortable against the super soft baby skin. I liked how they turned out, so wanted to share with you what I did in case it helps anyone. 

What I used:

• 3/4 inch (19mm) wide white cotton twill tape
• Stamp set with numbers and letters (each stamp here is sized 12x9mm)
• Inkpad - I used a Versacraft one which is good for fabric
• An iron

The rest is pretty simple. I cut a 6cm+ long strip of twill tape. Leaving around 1.5cm blank from the top, I did the 3 stamps snugly (and the width of the twill tape was perfect). Once dry, I ironed the strip over a pressing cloth (a bit of silk organza) for 20 seconds, on a cotton setting without steam (some say 2-5 minutes, but even with the iron moving, my tape and the ironing board cover got scorched after less than a minute). Once cool, fold your strip in half, and you should have 1.5cm of seam allowance above the stamp. You can trim down the seam allowance if necessary. Sew into the seam as desired. 

For these bummies and leggings, I sewed the label onto the centre back when topstitching the folded serged waistband elastic, with my normal 3-step zigzag.  I've actually batch made a few labels, including for the next size. If you wanted to do this, just remember to give the stamps a quick wipe after each stamp, so that you don't get too many ink "boxes" around the letter/number. 

Of course, you can get creative with this, playing with the size of tape, stamps, angles etc. I have a few funky stamps in my stash from the wedding planning/thank you card days, and may well experiment with a few designs next!