I've been trying my hand at sewing activewear for some time. I may not have featured a lot on my blog yet, but you may have seen a few projects on my instagram grid. So far, they've mainly been pole fitness-related, even including a couple of sets for a photoshoot, so it is definitely time to sew something sporty with more coverage!
Introducing my new set for yoga, pole fitness warm-up/cool down, stretching and just generally lounging about. At a push, I'd be pretty pleased to wear these as PJs, too, I'm sure.
It comprises a super colourful pair of Brassie Joggers by Greenstyle Creations (one of the best places to go for activewear patterns, in my humble opinion), teamed with a low back top that I eked out of a rather tiny remnant of merino jersey which I picked up from the Fabric Store in Melbourne a few years ago (cos, you know, what else would you buy from a trip to Oz?). Shall we talk joggers first? I'm a huge joggers fan, even though I don't jog (assuming running for the train does not count). The updated Brassies have been on my list for some time, and I jumped at the chance of getting this pattern during the last Black Friday sale. I like how slim fitting this pattern is, and appreciate all the options (for the rise, the pockets, the length). The shape looks exactly like a pair of long-serving ready-to-wear yoga bottoms in my wardrobe, and I couldn't wait to give these a go.
And they did not disappoint! I printed the mid-rise option, and cut a full-length version with ankle cuffs and curved pockets in size C (I was in between B and C but opted to size up here despite what the pattern said). The pocket construction is new to me: instead of 2 pocket bags on each side, these are what I would describe as pocket facings. I was keen to try this method, as I have seen the finish on a pair of hubby's ready-to-wear joggers, and I like how little bulk they added. Plus, I had been dying to try out reverse coverstitching! OK, I know that I have not yet blogged about my new coverstitch machine properly, but perhaps that's a post for another time.
Obviously this splashed paint cotton French Terry from Flamingo Fabrics is not colourful enough, so I decided to use rainbow thread in the reverse coverstitching ;) The fabric has lovely 4-way stretch, and is super comfortable to wear. I think it would make a great base for yoga.
Not bad for a first attempt at reverse coverstitching, right?
The only changes I made were 1) shortening the legs both above and below the knees, and 2) inserting 2' elastic instead of the drawstring. I'm a little surprised that the pattern didn't include the elastic as an option (I understand that the update removed it). I find that I tend not to bother tightening the drawstrings on joggers anyway, and don't particularly like the buttonhole look. My daughter also very much enjoys pulling them out, so I try to save myself from having to rethread them into the channels again and again if I can help it!
The top required more brain work and careful planning. I had a certain picture in mind (based on an old Victoria Sports top that I really like), which involves a loose (but flattering) fit, a wide neckline and a low back. As mentioned above, I had only bought a remnant piece of this amazing merino wool jersey from my trip Down Under, and I had already used a piece to make winter leggings for Freya as a baby. Does it make me a bad mother when I wish I hadn't used such precious fabric for my daughter, who grew out of those clothes in a matter of months?
I'm also showing off the straps of my first version of Jalie 3247 sports bra here, though that's still on my to-blog list too (I am starting to see a theme here)!
I made a few design changes to the plain front and back version of the short sleeve tulip tee in size XXS to realise my "vision":
I'm also showing off the straps of my first version of Jalie 3247 sports bra here, though that's still on my to-blog list too (I am starting to see a theme here)!
What it did mean was that I had a very limited piece (around 80cm, not full width) of merino wool left, and I wanted to get something fabulous and long-lasting out of it. Thank goodness I'm rather short! After having this piece laid out on my living room floor for quite some time, trying out different patterns on it, I decided to go with the FREE Tulip Tee from Patterns for Pirates as a base pattern, as the dolman style was relatively efficient on fabric use.
- I raised the centre front on the neckline by 6cm, and widened the neckline by 9cm (4.5cm on each side);
- I lowered a whopping 25cm of the centre back, drawing a gentle curve using my French Curve;
- In terms of length, I only had enough fabric to cut the band line at the bottom, even though I was hemming it;
- I added sleeve bands to the sleeves, using 85% of the sleeve opening plus seam allowances;
- Finally, for the neck, I decided to bind it using my Coverstitch (did I mention that I have a coverstitch machine now?). More detail below on my first ever binding experience!
I was quite scared to mess up this precious project by doing the binding badly, but I really didn't think a band was going to cut it. It's a huge neck opening (around 1 metre long!), and frankly, I only had enough fabric to try binding once, even if by some miracle I do manage to unpick any bad attempt successfully without stretching out the neckline. The pressure was well and truly on!
I went into a serious research mode. After looking around, I decided to try the Megan Nielsen method. I love how neat the finish is on both sides, and how it appears to work on different types of fabric. I cut the binding piece at 88% of the neck opening, at 7.5cm wide. I then followed the method as described very carefully. And what do you know? It was absolutely perfect! Here's a picture from the back:
If I may say so myself, this little set is perfect, and just what I needed to help get my arse in gear. I was a little worried after cutting out the back piece for the top, mainly by how low it was, but I was relieved that it actually ended up being just the right "depth" for me and the shoulders stay on a treat (something that I struggled a bit with my favourite Victoria Sports top).
Now, I'm off to do some exercise! See you soon!
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