Progress report - Sat 24 Sept - understructure finished!

I was going to share progress at the end of the weekend/on Monday but I couldn't wait until then! 


So I've managed to tick a few things off my to-do list and here's the result:

corselette (with waist stay unattached on the outside for the time being, also note that I had just had a big dinner when the photo was taken...)

 Top edge of corselette stablised with strips of silk organza selvages on the outside. The reason for this is that the neckline was unstable due to the bias cut. 

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 Skirt lining #1 with 2 layers of gathered dress net attached to corselette.


Then top layer of dress net was pinned to the corselette directly to check length. 

Top layer of dress net now sewn onto the corselette with a straight stitch. The bottom of the dress is slightly off the ground when I'm wearing the wedding shoes! exactly what I wanted. 


I am happy with the progress I've made as the understructure is now finished! even the seam allowances have been dealt with (zigzagged/catchstitched where appropriate). You can really see the silhouette of the dress now and I think it's going to be lovely! Obviously I do still have a lot to do but I don't think it'll do any harm taking a moment to enjoy the progress so far :) 

To-do list for the weekend

Now that I have given the assembly of the dress more thought, I have jotted down what I would like to achieve this weekend.

To-do

·         Reposition the zipper so the corselette fits perfectly.

·         Test whether the bottom of the corselette should be left open.

·         Sew organza selvage onto the right side of the corselette top bias edge.

·         Decide if top layer of netting should be attached to foundation or skirt lining.

·         Implement – under structure should then be completed!

·         Decide length of lining – to consider extending the train at the side seams and to lengthen the current pattern (check if it’s been shortened) by up to 10cm (to allow for heels).

·         Decide on depth of back opening – to consider using a zip at the bottom so the opening is large enough for me to get into the dress...

·         Adjust pattern accordingly

·         Cut lining – place centre back on selvage

·         Attach garment sections of lining

·         Test fit on dress form with the understructure

·         If it’s a good fit, overcast the seams

·         Press open the seams and catchstitch

So by Sunday night I should have the understructure done (with temporary closure until much nearer the time) and the lining as well... these are ambitious plans but let's see how I get on...

'Get my sewing confidence back' dress

OK so I had a bit of a tough time a couple of weeks ago when I spent a couple of days attempting new things and achieving nothing... so - I decided to make use of my corselette toile (which happened to fit fine but wasn't long enough for the actual wedding dress to attach dress net) and a bit of blue taffeta to make this dress in the hope that I will achieve something at the end of it. I made Simplicity 4070 view D with the following alterations:


I added a waist stay and separate closures for the lining layer (as it was the corselette toile); 
I omitted the parallel ribbons and replaced it with one thin pink grosgrain ribbon; 
I shortened the skirt slightly; and
I added nylon dress net to the bottom of the corselette to add some volume. 


Here are a few photos:

I am happy with the result and it did help me get my confidence back but I did learn a few lessons from this though:

1) be careful which side of the lining that I am attaching to the fashion fabric... as silly me! I managed to attach it incorrectly; and

2) machine blind-hemming is hard! (a zoomed in photo may give away how uneven the hem is!) I will definitely not attempt to do this on my wedding dress. doing it by hand will give it more control although of course being more time consuming. 

Corselette! finally...

I've finally made the actual corselette for the wedding dress! Voila!

I have left the waist stay on the outside for the time being and have not finished the closures at the back. I will be using hook and eye tape but given that the wedding is over 10 months later, I thought I'd do these things closer to the time in case I put on/lose weight! 


There are 11 bonings in the corselette and I think I will attach the heavy dress net to this layer. but I'm yet to decide whether I'll add another lining layer for the corselette for comfort and whether I should finish the top of the corselette (or just leave it as it won't be on show anyway). 


So almost time to cut into the fashion fabric! I'm not quite feeling brave enough yet!