Thursday, 10 May 2012

My noisy Sorbetto and the new overcasting foot

Those that know me well will tell you that I can never say no to free things... and they are right! So having downloaded the very popular FREE Sorbetto pattern a few weeks ago, I could not wait any longer to make my own version. 

Well, here's what I ended up with...

I'm not thrilled with it... I used a tiny piece of viscose (perhaps more commonly referred to as rayon) and some satin bias tape... This is where I've gone wrong! The bias tape is way too heavy for the viscose (it all seems so obvious now) so it' does not lie flat at the neckline or armholes. It's a shame because I do like the colour of the tape - I thought about making a self-fabric bias binding but decided that the satin tape would really bring out the accent of the fabric! oh well - this is how we learn, right?

Perhaps you could see it more when I wear it:

I don't look very happy there, do I?

I wanted to make this into a wearable toile but I don't think I'll end up wearing this. Maybe my next one will be better once I've adjusted the pattern a little?

I decided to call this the "noisy" Sorbetto because of the print on the fabric. It's mainly blue but it has so much going on! The piece I had was 63cm long and 110cm wide, so it was really quite tiny. I had to cut the pieces like this to fit it all in:

The pattern is a good one. It is extremely simple - there are 2 pattern pieces only, and all you need to do is 2 darts, a box pleat and a bias tape finish. It only took me about 3 hours in total to make it, so you could quite easily do it as an evening project! The instructions were also very clearly set out - this is my first Colette pattern and I was impressed by the instructions. It also takes very little fabric - you could make it with just about any leftover fabric! 

I had to make some alterations though - as with most other sewers, I lengthened the top by 2 inches. Given that I'm only 5'3, (and would consider myself to be fairly proportionate), and the finished top didn't feel long to me (although I did do a wider hem), this pattern was originally designed as a short top. so if you're reading this, please do lengthen it and you won't regret it - of course you could always take that off if it's too long! 

The finished fit was a very loose one. I took an an inch at both sides to improve the fit slightly... I cut a size 0 but it was very baggy. The pattern claims that if in doubt, cut a bigger size but I would suggest the opposite personally. Actually, I think I would suggest making a toile first to perfect the fit. 

Will I make this again? I'm not sure - I know that the bias tape caused the failure of this task (oops, I think I've watched too much of The Apprentice!) but I feel that I have other top patterns that will provide me with a better result without the alterations. But I'm not ready to rule this out altogether - so I will keep the pattern in my stash and who knows? It may just be perfect for some leftover fabric from other projects. 

There was another reason why I was so keen to make this NOW - I bought a overcasting foot for my basic Singer, and I was sooo excited about trying it out properly. It looks quite like a walking foot, but there's a "pin" at the bottom of the foot which acts to keep the edge flat. This is also known as a overlocker foot, as the seam finish resembles that done by an overlocker/serger. 

I made the purchase after reading several blog posts and an article in Sew today - especially as it does more than giving a neat finish to the seams! But I'm sticking with the basics for now - I bought this attachment because I was tired of the zigzagged finish of my seams. 

Here are some photos of it "in action":

Can you see the pin in the middle? 

I used a zigzag stitch, set at its widest, and was so happy with the finish (bearing in mind how much viscose frays!)

The needle goes left and right of the pin, the right being on the edge of the seam. I find that I get a neater result when I position the fabric so that the edge ends just to the left of the pin, with a stitch length set relatively small (but this will probably change when I use it on other fabric).  

I think this may be my best purchase ever! I'll try out its other uses in the coming weeks but for now, I just want to enjoy how neat the seam finish is - who cares if I'm going to wear this top or not!

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